New Zealand - North Island

Feb 6 - Feb 17, 2020

Arrival & Motorhome

Hot Water Beach

Cathedral Cove

Waitomo Glowworms

Waiotapu

Tamaki Maori Village

Taupo & Turangi

Tongariro NP

Wellington

New Zealand is full of gorgeous natural beauty and amazing attractions, it’s been on our bucket list for years. We were super excited to spend a month in New Zealand. North Island has denser population and a large variety of attractions to fill up two solid weeks of travel, whereas the South Island’s natural beauty is more breathtaking than the North. Both are must-visits, and we were happy to have allocated enough time for both islands during our stay.

Voyagers tips:

Motorhome or Hotels? There are strong opinions on both sides. New Zealand is indeed an ideal destination for motorhomes, in that you need to be constantly on the move to take full advantage of what the island has to offer. We opted to give motorhome a try, as we’ve always wanted to experience motorhome life ourselves. After spending three weeks in our motorhome, we would recommend other travelers to go the hotel route. The main reason is that there is a general sense of New Zealanders not welcoming campervans/motorhomes. Many smaller campervans aren’t self-contained (no toilet) or perhaps the travelers don’t like cleaning them, so they defecate in nature, causing major headaches for the locals. As such, there has been major restrictions on where travelers can camp out overnight, whether it be campervans or motorhomes (bigger vehicles). We got the motorhome due to the supposed freedom that comes with it, but the camping restrictions throughout the country takes away much of the freedom. We ended up paying to stay at Top 10 holiday parks at most destinations, which are very convenient but add to the cost. Large motorhomes are also inconvenient in cities, where they don’t fit into standard parking spots or underground parking. There is still one benefit of campervan/motorhome, which is the flexibility in your schedule, as most holiday parks don’t require advanced reservations beyond a few days. Weighing all the pros and cons, however, we would recommend hotels and rental cars over campervan/motorhome.

Some tips on Motorhome if you go this route: We got the 7-meter motorhome, which was spacious enough for the four of us. Top 10 Holiday Park chain aren’t cheap but are usually nice, and kids enjoy playing with other kids in the playgrounds at the holiday parks. Look into Top 10 membership if you’re spending three weeks or more in New Zealand, the discounts add up and make this membership a good value. Most holiday parks outside major cities don’t require advanced reservation, but the ones in cities should be reserved well in advance, especially during peak and shoulder seasons. Cities like Wellington, Christchurch and especially Queenstown require advanced reservation. We got used to getting free spots with no reservation at most places and were caught with nowhere to go in Queenstown. Don’t make this mistake.

If you only have two weeks or less, stick with just one island. New Zealand is very spread out, you’d be spending most of your time on the road if you try to cover both islands in two weeks. Each island needs at least a week and a half to be adequately explored, and can easily take up to three weeks each without feeling bored.

To visit both North and South Island, you have two route options. With motorhomes, it’s easier to hop onto the car ferry from Wellington to South Island and continue on. For hotels, it’s probably better to only go as far south as Tongariro and loop back up to Auckland, return the car, and fly down to Christchurch to start a loop of South Island.

Cash / Credit cards: Most places take credit cards, so you don’t need much cash. The currency here is New Zealand Dollar.

Shopping: Supermarkets are convenient here and are easier to find throughout North Island. Pak n Save are usually bigger in scale and have better prices than other stores.

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arrival and motorhome

 
 
 
 

Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand, with the largest international airport. We flew from Manila, Philippines directly to Auckland, stayed overnight at a hotel then picked up our motorhome the next morning.

Voyagers tips: If you decide to do campervan/motorhome in NZ, be sure to load up on groceries and supplies in Auckland. the Pack n Save in town has large selections and low prices.

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Hot Water Beach

 
 

Our first destination in New Zealand was Coromandel Forest Park, which has cool places like Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Hot Water Beach is located right above two underground hot springs, so if you dig deep enough at the right spots, you can reach the hot water from underground, making a hot spring spa right on the beach. Very unique!

Voyagers tips: The reality of creating a hot spring pool on the beach is harder than the romanticized version you may have read online. There are very specific spots where you can find hot water underground, and even at these spots, the hole needs to be about 5ft deep by 10ft wide. Luckily, many of these holes are left over from previous visitors. From the beach entrance, walk towards the water and turn left, go about a quarter mile until you see rocky mountains on your left and water on your right. The perfect spot is aligned with the first wall of the rocky mountain. There were five or six holes when we got there, only two had really warm water, and one had jacuzzi-level warmth. Part of the fun is sharing the holes with others; we were lucky enough that the people with the holes let us enjoy it, and we in turn welcomed all the passerbys to join us and enjoy it. Enjoying it with others make it more fun and allowed us to meet cool travelers from around the world. You need a real shovel to make a dent in the hole, there are shovel-rental places near the beach and you can pick them up before getting there.

This was one of the few beaches we found that doesn’t ban overnight camping. We freedom-camped on the street at the beach and nobody bothered us.

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cathedral cave, coromandel, north island

 
 

Cathedral Cove is the most popular hike in Coromandel. It’s a steep but relatively short hike, only about a 20-25min hike down to the beach. The steep hike back makes the return trip feel longer than it really is. The view along the way and the beach are beautiful; allow for time to rest and relax at the beach, it’s a gorgeous beach and the visit shouldn’t be rushed.

Voyagers tips:

Parking: There is no parking at the entrance, but there’s a massive parking lot with frequent shuttle service back and forth every 15 minutes or so. There is another option: Many visitors on TripAdvisor recommend just parking at nearby houses’ front yards for a fee and walk to the entrance. This isn’t as convenient as it sounds; the entrance is on top of a steep hill and many of these houses are further down the hill, so you’d need to hike up to the entrance before the hike even starts. Not worth it. It’s easier to just park at the designated parking lot and take the shuttle back and forth. You need to pay for the shuttle; there is a ticket machine at the parking lot, but it didn’t work with my American credit card. Luckily, the bus driver also accepts cash.

Bring a beach towel and plenty of water. You can also pick up some sandwiches from the food trucks at the entrance and have a picnic at the beach. The sandwiches aren’t cheap but are pretty tasty and convenient.

There is an option to do a kayak tour where you kayak to the cove/beach. It’s not easy kayaking in ocean though, you’re at the mercy of the wind and waves. We were happy we chose the hiking option.

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hobbiton, north island

 
 

“The Shire”, the movie set created for this fictional town in Lord of the Rings (LOTR) is one of the most popular destinations in North Island. The tour is very well organized and the tour is set up to be very enjoyable even if you’re not a complete LOTR fanatic. LOTR is filmed at many locations throughout New Zealand, but this is the main place created solely for the movie, and the amount of work put into the set is amazing. We loved our visit.

Voyagers tips: Book tickets in advance to get your ideal time slots. Get there 30min before your scheduled tour time to check in. There are options to do a dinner with the tour, but we just did the basic tour during the day and it was great. If your kids aren’t LOTR fans, it goes a long way to just show them some clips of the beginning of the first LOTR movie to get them acclimated. We did this and it really elevated their appreciation for the set during the tour.

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Waitomo Glowworm, North Island

 
 

Glowworms are a special phenomenon unique to New Zealand and Australia. The “glowworms” are actually a kind of maggots that glows on the ceiling of caves to trick insects into thinking they are stars in the outdoors. They figured “glowworm caves” sound more attractive than “ glowing maggots caves”, hence the name. There are sticky strands hanging down from the larvae, and when the insects fly up to the “sky”, they get stuck on these sticky strands similar to how spider webs work. Nature is amazing!

Voyagers tips: There are nine places to see glowworms in New Zealand, but this is one of the most popular. There are several options on exploring Waitomo caves: First, there are three caves. The main Waitomo cave is the most popular and is mainly a short boat ride where you go through complete darkness on a small boat and admire the glowworms on the ceiling in complete silence. You can combine this experience with one or both of the other two caves: Ruakuri cave and Aranui cave. Ruakuri is fantastic and we enjoyed it much better than the main cave. You can walk deep into the cave with a tour guide, learn a lot about the glowworms and get up close and personal to the glowworms, so close that you may hit your head on some glowworm rocks if you’re not careful. There are also plenty of stalactites and stalagmites to admire. This was the highlight of the visit for us and we’re surprised how few people choose to visit this cave. Aranui is the third cave you can visit, but it’s filled with stalactites and stalagmites, with no glowworms, so we skipped it. The best advise we can give is to visit Ruakuri in the combo tour. It’s fantastic!

Another option is to do “blackwater rafting”. You join a small group and a tour guide, put on wet suits and bring a floating tube, and jump/float through tunnels of water streams in darkness. It sounds like a ton of fun, but our family members decided to skip it, so we didn’t get to experience it. Bummer.

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Waiotapu Thermal wonderland

 
 

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, a cool geothermal and volcanic place, reminds me of Yellowstone and Iceland.

Voyagers tips: The park is open all day, but the only active geyser, the Lady Knox Geyser, only goes off once a day at 10:15am. Get there early to allow time for parking, walking, and getting good seats. How are they able to time the geyser activity so precisely everyday? Because they need to add certain soap-like chemicals to the geyser to activate it. Plan to spend 3-4 hours at the park. It’s a short drive away from Rotorua, so we were able to combine the Waiotapu visit with a Maori experience in the evening from Rotorua, with plenty of time to rest in between.

Tamaki Maori village

 
 

Maori is the name of the people of Polynesian roots that lived in New Zealand before the westerners. Unlike most western countries that trivialize the native people’s culture, New Zealand does a great job embracing the Maori culture. One example of this is the many place names being of Maori origin. There are a few choices where visitors get to experience the Maori experience, and Tamaki Village seems to have the best reviews online, so we chose it. It didn’t disappoint — The entire experience was very well orchestrated, making for a very entertaining and educational evening.

Voyagers tips: The experience starts from a bus picking people up from many hotels or a meeting point, then people are assigned groups and get on group-specific buses to the village. Each bus is a “tribe” for the night and assigns a Chief leading the tribe for the night. This is a great experience, guys can volunteer to be the Chief for the best experience. No women allowed for this position, unfortunately. Activities are also lots of fun, but not everyone gets to participate, so be sure to volunteer for the activities to get the most out of your experience.

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rotorua

top 10 holiday park

city center

Rotorua is a nice mid-sized city, pretty small by U.S. standards but has all the city benefits the travelers can ask for: Nice supermarkets, restaurants, hotels and nearby attractions.

top 10 holiday park, rotorua

 
 

This was our first “holiday park” experience. Places for campervans and motorhomes are separated into three camping sites: (1) Freedom camping (you just find a place to park, there’s nothing there); (2) Camp sites (parking spots and toilets, not much else); (3) Holiday parks (Nice common areas and facilities, hot showers, shared kitchens, even playgrounds for kids). Top 10 is a leading chain of holiday parks throughout New Zealand. The quality of holiday parks vary a lot, this was one of the nicest holiday parks we’ve stayed at. It’s not exactly luxurious, but everything is clean and just works. We also met some great fellow travelers here, and the girls made new friends at the playground. A very pleasant experience.

Voyagers tips: This is one of Top 10’s two “Premium” holiday parks in New Zealand. It’s popular and could fill up, best to make reservations in advance.

rotorua city center

 
 

Rotorua’s city center is relatively small and pretty dead by 7pm, all the shops are closed except for the restaurants. It’s a nice place for a stroll during the day though. It’s a convenient city with plenty of large stores within a short drive of the center, and serves as a great base for exploring Waitomo glowworm caves, Waiotapu thermal wonderland and several nearby attractions.

taupo & turangi

taupo

 
 

Lake Taupo is the largest lake in New Zealand and has plenty of lake-side activities to keep visitors busy. Kids will enjoy playing on the lake beach. We had a quick stop here and kept moving to Turangi. That is, until we got a flat tire on the way. We called the Automobile Association (AA, similar to AAA in the U.S.) to swap in the spare, but were warned we need to get the flat tire repaired/replaced, otherwise we’ll be really stranded if we get another flat. There were a total of four tire companies within a 35-mi radius, and only one could source a tire of our size for us. We ended up driving back up to Taupo the next morning for the tire repair before proceeding on our trip.

turangi

 
 

There’s not much to do in the town of Turangi, but the Tongariro River Trail is a fantastically fun mountain biking trail in Turangi. It’s a Grade 2 mountain biking trail and is relatively easy, but still proved to be quite challenging for Megan and the girls who have never mountain-biked before. It didn’t help that M’s bike was way too big and A’s was too small. A combined 10+ falls and three bike breakdowns later, we completed it. The trail was beautiful, we enjoyed it even with all the challenges. Very proud of the girls!

Voyagers tips: There’s a bike shop nearby called Central Plateau Cycles where you can rent bikes. The selection isn’t great, especially for kids, but the staff is super friendly and flexible.

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tongariro national park

 
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Tongariro National Park is beautiful. Many parts of Lord of the Rings were shot here. We visited Tawhai Falls (Gollum’s Pool) and Silica Rapids... both with beauty all around. Lord of the Rings movies are shot throughout New Zealand, it’s fun to find the movie set spots throughout the country. Tawhai Falls is, of course, where some clips are shot where Gollum’s by the water. Those scenes are dark and grim though. Silica Rapids got its name from the silica minerals that comes up from underground, coloring the rocks white. This is the first white-bed river I’ve ever seen, very unique. Beautiful scenery along the way also, fantastic hike.

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wellington

Harbourside Market

cable car & botanic garden

mount victoria

te papa museum

waterfront overnight camping

interislander car ferry

Wellington is the capital of New Zealand and is a beautiful city at the southern tip of South Island. We visited Wellington mainly because it has the port for the car ferry to South Island, but the beautiful spots around here, especially the botanic garden on top of the cable car track, far exceeded our expectations.

Voyagers Tip: For overnight camping sights, don’t fight over the designated campsites. There are several beaches with clean restrooms that have parking spots for overnight camping. These places are not designated camping sites on the popular apps, but are mentioned if you read the descriptions of designated sites carefully. For tips on ferries, please see the section below on Interislander Car Ferry.

harbourside market

 
 

This is the oldest and largest market in Wellington. Food vendor selections were interesting, ranging from Chinese to Syrian and everything in between. When we went to visit, unfortunately, there was a marathon event and they banned all campervans and motorhomes from parking near the market. We drove all around and could not find a parking spot big enough for our motorhome, so we snapped a few quick pictures and left. It looks like a fun spot for a couple of hours if you are there on a Sunday morning though.

cable car & botanic garden

 
 

This was our favorite part of Wellington. The cable car ride up was fun, but the highlight is the garden on top. There’s a fantastic view of the city at the top, and the garden is big and includes things like playgrounds, ponds and several gardens each with its unique characters. We purchased round-trip cable car tickets but ended up walking back down from the top to enjoy more of the garden. It was just a fantastic way to enjoy the outdoors and is worthy of a full afternoon.

mount victoria

 
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The view from up here is incredible. The road to the top is windy, be careful driving there. Be prepared for high wind up there. There’s not much to do other than enjoy the view up here, but the view is gorgeous and it’s definitely a worthwhile stop.

scorching bay

 
 

We were struggling to find a campsite as the only free campsite on the popular campervan apps was completely full and the holiday parks were fully booked. We happened to see the descriptions of the campsite listing all the beaches to check out, and the ones we found were all fantastic campsites, with beautiful waterfront views, few crowds in the evening, and convenient restrooms. Scorching Bay was our campsite for the first night, and we found another beach closer to the ferry stop on the second night. The were both beautiful.

te papa museum

 
 

Home schooling in Museum of New Zealand Te Papa: tables, free Wifi, no pressure to leave. What’s not to like? 😁 

Te Papa Museum of New Zealand includes various exhibits related to New Zealand, such as the history and culture of Maori people, NZ’s role in World War 1, and deforestation problem in New Zealand, as well as other fun exhibits. The exhibits and displays are interactive and are designed to encourage children’s engagement. We typically aren’t crazy about museums and only went looking for a good spot for home schooling, but we really enjoyed visiting the museum and ended up spending more time there than we had planned.

Interislander Car Ferry

 
 

There are two main ferries that crosses Cook Straight and Marlborough Sound between the North and South Islands: Interislander and Bluebridge. There are tons of reviews online with conflicting opinions, but in general, it appears that services are comparable and Bluebridge is a bit cheaper. In reality, though, the cheaper fares are nonrefundable tickets that sell out early. We booked late to keep our itinerary flexible, and the Top 10 membership card provides a 10% discount on Interislander Ferry, so Interislander was actually cheaper for us. Based on our research, you can’t go wrong with either one.

Voyagers tips: The reservations require that cars show up half an hour before departure time, and it’s best to show up early, but be prepared to wait for a while before they start letting cars in. Seats on the ferry are limited, so it pays to get there early and be in the front of the line. We weren’t early but were lucky to find an empty table on Level 7 at the cafe. The views outside are beautiful, but it does get cold and windy. The ferries are known to be choppy at times but our ride was very smooth.